Library of Textile, Apparel and Fashion

Current Challenges of Textile and Apparel Industry in Bangladesh

Current Challenges of Textile and Apparel Industry in Bangladesh

Sharmin Akther Diba
Industrial & Production Engineer
Rajshahi University of Engineering & Technology (RUET)
Email: dibasrmn@gmail.com

Introduction
The ready-made garments industry or Textile Industry is the most influential economic sector of Bangladesh. Because of labor intensiveness, technological improvements, resourceful workforce, tremendous success, this sector going upper day by day. This sector faces some challenges these days. Six major challenges are described below:


A denim Garments- Made in Bangladesh


1.  Increasing electronics, Motors & Hi-tech Industries:
At present people want good quality local products at a cheaper cost. Keeping this in mind, so many renowned hi-tech, micro-tech, motors & vehicles, electrical & electronics products & accessories companies build up. Among them, Atlas Copco, Walton group, Runner group, Minister group, Philips, Jamuna group, RFL group, Superstar group, My one, Best electronics, Esquire electronics, etc. are doing very well to grab customers. They are running continuously by embracing new technologies & customer demand. In fact, they are competing with the garments sector by adding more value to the economy of Bangladesh.


2. Order speed up & variety increases:
Nowadays people's fashion choices as well as trends changing rapidly. Classy, fusion & trendy items are top on a choice following Hollywood or Bollywood. The globally competitive market also wants rapid feedback from its suppliers. Order speeds up because of this reason. In some cases, buyers want delivery within two weeks which is a very strict time schedule to follow for our RMG sector. Here things are not in ideal condition so every time it’s not possible to follow supply chain rules to on-time delivery. Our fashion designers are not to an extraordinary expert to give feedback soon as per buyer specifications. We feel comfortable producing T-shirts, Sweatshirts, Hoody, Jackets, Polo shirts, Pant, shirts, Home tex, etc. On contrary, our competitor countries produce fancy items with a short lead time. For example, Amazon brings custom-made products with a few hours of delivery time. Our weakness turns a threat to our growing apparel sector.

3. Recent wage increment:
RMG sector's recent wage increment will affect our apparel growth. After 51% wage increment there were some unrest demand issues & it also cleared. From a minimum salary of 5300 takas (Gazette in 2013) for an assistant operator to 8000 takas (Gazette in 2019), is a huge increment for about 4.4 million garment workers. With this direct cost increment, the per-minute cost of the companies will increase also. It will rise product-making costs & freight on board value. Foreign buyers will not pay high in accordance with that. So, we may lose an order or sometimes need to business in breakeven point.

4. Dependency & grading system:
We have a habit of being dependent on specific buyer orders. In some cases, the company has one or two buyers to depend on their continuous order. The business policy needs to change. We should focus on open market policy rather than our dependency. For this reason, we are adopting their illegal conditions like continuous order or repeat order discount policy, rapid styles push policy, etc. Sometimes they are getting advantage of quality policies by grading system of product & reducing payment. China & India have their own code of conduct in these regards & they are not so dependent on any specific regional buyers. We need to develop our negotiation & marketing strategies.

5. Global technological improvements:
We are lacking behind in respect of technological improvements. China uses fully automated machines which take 5 to 6 minutes to complete a jeans pant sewing. On contrary, we invest in general 15 to 20 minutes to complete it with several machine & manual operations. It is not necessary to grab all the methods, technologies, or techniques suddenly. Our neighbor country India practicing slowly but rising rapidly. There are so many foreign professionals working in our country. They follow production-friendly methods, quick changeover steps, lean manufacturing, standardization, TQM tools, TPM systems, MRP tools, Supply chain strategies, minute-based capacity planning tools, precise software-based costing analysis, digital marketing policy, and so on. Instead of learning or adopting, we are just following them which in turn adds no value when they are not available. Most of the women workers of the RMG sector be afraid of adopting semi-automation or methodological change. It is necessary to train them, literate them. When the modern world works for the elimination of non-value-added activities, we are interested to grab them by making our efforts easier. Our middle & top managements are not trendy in these regards that’s why they are wasting efficient workers capability. They need to be more focused on grabbing modern machinery, technologies, methods, plans, software, etc. to make successful business globally.

6. Safety & green business policies:
After the Rana plaza & Tazrin garments incidents, industrial safety becomes an important issue for foreign buyers. Every international buyer has their own safety & compliance policy. Sometimes those are just a way of making a hindrance. Accord & Alliance, OHS, WRAP, etc. become mandatory to get international standards. Safety and compliance rules sometimes become the reason for not getting renowned buyer orders. A green production system or green business policy is another international requirement. USGBC & LEED certification is mandatory to get top-class buyer's orders. According to a report on The Daily Star published on 9th October 2018, there are 73 Bangladeshi LEED Green garment factories certified by the USGBC. There are some 320 factories in the pipeline waiting to get LEED Green garment factories certificate. The economic zone of RMG sector is strictly on these rules & regulations as well as other sites factories are willing to certify themselves as safe & environment-friendly organization.

Other Factors create challenges for our Textile and Apparel sector:
There are some weak points of our Textile Industry which make our business challenging. They are:
1.      Limitation of modern machinery & automation system
2.      Lack of technology-oriented labor force
3.      Fear of short lead-time shipment
4.      Limitation of raw material production
5. Time-consuming port services
6.      Lack of local professionals
7.      Mismatch between planning & implementation
8.      Not adopting software-based precise costing & planning
9.      Political unrest condition &natural calamities
10.  Lack of marketing tactics & skillful middle management
11.  Lack of negotiation power of order taking
12.  Lack of large group of companies to attract foreign buyers

Also, there are some Threat points for our Industry that make our business challenging. They are:
1.      Globally competitive export market
2.      Rise of the price of raw materials
3.      Wages increments of RMG workers
4.      Increasing making cost & FOB cost
5.      Speed order increases for all buyer
6.      Dependency on mother buyer of companies
7.      Short lead time & fragmented order
8.      Product variety & demand for fancy items
9.      Products grading system of buyers turn a reason of loss
10.  Zero traffic facilities of African countries attract buyers
11.   China has more technological & infrastructure facilities
12.   Bad fame of country due to political issues& corruptions

RMG sector of Bangladesh passed so many ups & downs, finally reaches present condition. In accordance to global changes, the Bangladesh RMG sector needs to improve technologically, need to modify traditional methods, enhance marketing strategy & business policy, ensure standard safety & compliance policy, Precise costing & planning, use supply chain strategy, business process excellence technology, training & implementation, research & development, Multi-skilled management systems, practicing industrial engineering tools, etc.

References:
1. Hussain Jalal M., 2015, ‘RMG industry facing daunting challenges’, The financial express, Dhaka.
2. Islam Shahidul M., 2011, ‘RMG Sector: Challenges Versus Opportunities’, Apparel Bulletin of Bangladesh.
4. BGMEA Website
5. BKMEA Website
6. https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/5eb8/ bb3a4fa2597e9a11a8403a5ef77a1765525a.pdf