Library of Textile, Apparel and Fashion

GSD Sewing Formula

GSD concept, codes, sewing formula of Garments

Sharmin Akther Diba
Industrial & Production Engineer
Rajshahi University of Engineering & Technology (RUET)
Email: dibasrmn@gmail.com
LinkedIn: Sharmin Akther Diba

GSD Introduction
GSD, general sewing data give accurate data to set standard minute value using best method. It is a technique for methods analysis and the setting of time standards for the sewing industries. It can be used to evaluate operations within the textile industry in such environments as Cutting, Sewing, Examination, and Packing. General Sewing Data was devised by Methods Workshop Limited and is being continually developed by General Sewing Data Limited using an MTM database. It is a technique for methods analysis and the setting of time standards for needle trades work. It can be used to evaluate operations within the needle trades environment such as cutting, sewing, pressing, examination and packing.General Sewing Data recognizes commonly occurring motion sequences encountered in the needle trades environment and describes the motion utilizing codes, to each of which is associated with a definite time value.General Sewing Data consists of 25 codes at the general level, which is supplemented by getting/Put Data and selected MTM codes to give complete coverage.The system has been structured to enable the GSD practitioner to produce a logical, accurate and consistent evaluation of method and time. The system must be applied correctly taking into consideration the applicable rules of GSD.

Contents-
Introduction
G.S.D handling codes
General guidelines
Sewing codes
Distance codes

General Sewing Data

GSD was devised by Methods Workshop using an MTM database. It is a technique for methods analysis and the setting of time standards for the sewing industries. It can be used to evaluate operations within the textile industry in such environments as Cutting, Sewing, Examination, and Packing.

How does it work?
GSD recognizes commonly occurring motion sequences within the sewing industry and describes the motion utilizing unique codes that has a definite time value attached. There are 25 general codes, with additional Get and Put and selected MTM codes to give complete coverage.

How does it measure?
Each code has a time value attached expressed as TMU’s (Time Measurement Units). There are 2000 TMU’s in a Basic Minute. Additional allowances for rest, relaxation, fatigue and contingencies are applied to this to create Standard Minutes.

GSD Concept

Operations within the sewing trade are generally broken down into 5 main categories:-
1) Get parts and match.
2) Pre-form and/or put part(s) to machine foot.
3) Sew parts together with various re-alignments or addition of parts between sewing bursts.
4) Trimming threads.
5) Putting parts aside.

Advantages of GSD

1) Accurate
2) Consistent
3) Transferable between locations
4) Easy to communicate
5) Designed specifically for the sewing industry
6) Method sensitive
7) Predictive
8) Eliminates “rating” element
9) Aids workplace layout design

GSD-Handling codes:-

The work performed by a sewing machinist can be broken down as follows:-
Get part or parts and match
Pre-form and/or put parts to machine foot
Sew parts together align or add parts between bursts
Trim threads
Put parts aside


Sewing codes:-

Every code begins with “S” to indicate sewing
The code will then show the distance being sewn in centimeters
The next letter shows the degree of Guiding and Tensioning required:-
N (Nil) - Straight burst on single ply
L (Low) - Straight non-visible seam
M (Medium) - Straight visible or curved non-visible seam
H (High) - Curved visible/seam worked in confined space
The last letter shows the stopping accuracy required:-

A - Greater than 1cm (Along a seam)
B - Within 1cm (Non-visible Backtack)
C - Within 1/2cm (Visible Backtack or stop to pivot)



Therefore:-
S11MA would indicate sewing an 11cm burst along a straight seam, with no specific stopping point. This type of code is usually used for Overlock Side seams.

Workplace layout

Normal working area - finger, wrist and elbow movements.
Maximum working area - shoulder movements
The ideal layout should involve the operator not having to move further than the normal working area to complete her task.
The greater the distance, the greater the TMU Value:-
AS2H5 = 31 TMU
AS2H45 = 45 TMU
AS2H80 = 52 TMU



Conclusion
Standard values set by GSD are accurate, the breakdown of elements is easily understood and therefore consistency of values is achieved. Management/Supervisory staff can achieve an understanding of values within short time training.