Treatment and tactics for fabric preparation before start the bulk cutting of Garments manufacturing

Treatment and tactics for fabric preparation before starting the bulk cutting of Garments manufacturing

Fabrics procedure

Fabric is one of the most important elements of garments. Also, fabric cost is all most 60 % to 70 % out of total garment cost. Now a day’s high exclusive fashion are related to different kind’s luxurious fabric, wash verity and ornamental accessories, and decorative process. Also, garment fitting depends on the proper treatment of fabric.

So it is highly important to ensure fabrics quality before starting the bulk cutting. There is a lot of treatment and tactics to test fabrics and ensure the total quality. Here I am going to discuss the procedure and tactics that are most effective for ensuring the total quality of fabrics.

After receiving the fabric all those below effective procedures are need to implement step by step accordingly:

1) Blanket Making. 2) Leg Panel/ Shade band making. 3) Share card making 4) Dimensional Change test.5) Distortion test.6) Tube test. 7) Cross stain check. 8) Shade lot indicator mark on the cut panel.

1) Blanket Making:

Head end cutting: After receiving the fabric concern people of the quality department has to collect head end from each and every roll (10” length full width wise) for the purpose of shade blanked making. After collecting all head-end will spread together and mark on spreading with 8” x 8 “marking pattern. Four sets of blankets need to make. Three sets of blankets have to send to wash and one non-wash set kept with the factory. It is very important that Blanked will be washed with an actual recipe and meet actual wash standards.

After receiving from wash need to check how many shade lots contain with the blanker. Also find out accordingly which roll number contains shade lot: A, B, C, D, etc. Then need to separate out those rolls and prepare summery shade lot-wise. Out of three washed blanked one set has been kept to a factory, one needs to open to make a shade card and another one has to submit to the buyer office for their reference and approval if needed.

Note: During the blanket, the wash stage needs to confirm the colorfastness test. The washing plant will provide a colorfastness report with the washed blanket.

2) Leg Panel: If a different shade lot is found in the blank. Then Need to collect a sample from all shade lot and make a leg panel from every shade lot (per lot two pcs= one set) .each set Leg panel needs to wash with a different recipe for the purpose of closing the actual standard. And must keep a recipe record for each individual shade lot. For using the same recipe for the purpose of bulk wash. After achieving leg panel with the approval standard, then need to submit to concerned parties for approval. They will give approval one pcs from every shade lot with their seal and sign and another set they will keep for their reference.

Note: During the leg panel wash stage used different recipes for the different rent shade lot. So there is a chance to come to a different range of colorfastness from shade lot to shade lot. Also, it is important to confirm about colorfastness test in this stage. The washing plant also will provide a colorfastness test report with the washed leg panel.

3)Shade card making: Shade card is one of the most important components to make sure and separate out shade lot wise rolls and quantity. After making the shade cards it makes it easy to cut the fabric shade lot and PO wise. So there will not turn into much more shade in the same PO.

For one style we have received 6700yds fabric and after completing the procedure we got four shade lots. Like shade: A, B, C, D. then we have to make shade card chart as per shade lot wise. After making the shade cards we will get all the information about which rolls and how many yds are contained at shade lot wise.

4) Dimensional change test: Dimensional change means to check after washing fabric how many percentages increases, decrease, or unchanged at lengthwise and widthwise after wash. For dimensional change need to test each and every roll. Some buyers’ requirement is 50 cm x 50 cm sample from each roll. But due to fabric costing and consumption savings, also possible to make samples 25 cm x 25 cm from each roll for the dimensional change test report. For the size range of the sample, there will not be any difference in the dimensional change report. One more thing needs to keep in mind no need to cut the extra head end for the dimensional change test because when we have cut the head end for the blanket we can use fabric from there for the dimensional change. For Dimensional change has to wash the sample with the match of the actual wash standard and use an actual recipe. After received the sample need to take after wash measurement, and compare with before wash measurement how many percentages decreased, increased, and unchanged

As per the above dimensional test report, we have found different dimensional changes in rolls to rolls. So we need to separate out rolls according to dimensional change range. And need to make a different set of cutting patterns according to the dimensional change range. Otherwise, it will be quite impossible to meet the spec, if we cut the fabric with one set of cutting patterns. Also, we will get a different measurement in the same size due to different dimensional change range in the rolls to rolls. So there is no alternative to separate rolls and make a different set of patterns according to the dimensional change report.

Special note: if a dimensional change is length-wise 0. -3,-5,-6, and +4 %, in this situation we need to select a dimensional change range. Like: 0 to -3 one range, 4 to -6 another range, and +4% one more range.

For the 0 to 3% range, we need to adjust the increased cutting pattern by 1.5%, always have to follow of middle point for an individual dimensional change range, to adjust the cutting pattern. According to -4 to -6% range increase in cutting pattern 4.5% and for +4% dimensional change range, if there is no more range need to adjust pattern reduce 4% from the actual pattern. For the width-wise shifting same formula will be applicable.

5)Distortion Test: A distortion test is one of the important tests to check the fabric to find, is there any bias, twisting in the fabric which are take place during weaving process. If fabric contain bias more than 3%. During sewing leg twisting and bad shape will come on garment. It’s totally unacceptable. So before cutting we have to ensure about twisting and bias through the distortion test.

Procedure of distortion test: For the non-stretch fabric need to check distortion test 10 % rolls fabric from each lot. But for stretch and hi-stretch fabric need check 100% rolls fabric from each lot. Need to cut 60 cm length and full width wise head end from each roll. And put 50cm x 50 cm marking by the pattern. Make 2” distance from parallel to both selvages. Then send to wash with actual recipe and meet the wash standard. After receive from wash need to take after wash measurement the length of diagonal (AC & BD).

Distortion test Calculation
Then calculate the test result with the use of -below formula. If get result percent rate within +_ 3% then distortion test will pass and can go for precede the fabric cutting. But if found distortion +_ more than 3% then distortion Test will be fail. In this situation not allow fabric for proceed cutting. But some cases +_ 4% to 5% possible to cut after engineering the pattern. But before than need to lot of experiment with making sample garment by the cutting of engineering pattern. And after wash reviews if there is not found any twisting then possible to proceed for cutting.

Distortion Test formula:

1) Before wash measurement is fixed by 50cm x 50cm,

2) Measure the length of diagonal (AC & BD) after wash.

3) Show two parts of result individually no need to make average.

4) Calculate the percentage by using below formula:

X=100[2(AC- BD)/ (AC+BD)]

For example:

When AC is 71 cm and BD is 73 cm

X = 100 x [2(71-73)/ (71+73)]

X =100 X [2(-2)/ (144)]

X = 100 x-0.02777777777

X = - 2.777777777 (Acceptable and allow for cutting)

When AC is 74 cm & BD is 70 cm

X = 100 x [2(74-70)/ (74+70)]

X =100 x [2(4)/ (144)]

X = 100 x 0.0555555555

X = 5.555555555 (Unacceptable, not allow for cutting)

6)Tube test: Actually tube test report is for checking and confirm about the running and selvages shading. Need to make tube at least 10 % rolls from the each lot.

Again checked selvage shade need to sewing this tube like 10” distance to both selvage. Then need to cut the middle and middle need to join with both selvages. Ensure about selvage to selvage shade and selvage to middle shade. If found any selvage to selvage and selvage to middle shade, then it is easy to take decision what kinds of marker will be make for the bulk cutting.

7)Cross stain check: Cross stain check means if any contrast fabric , and thread will using in a same style then need to confirm there are any color shifting each to other component or not. Also we can ensure by the cross stain checking there have any color, discoloration in any component or not.

Procedure: Need to cut 50 cm X 50 cm Shell fabric for making patch blanket, then attached all of contrast fabric, accessories with the all of actual thread. After then send to wash with actual recipe and match witch actual wash standard. If after wash found any cross stain and color discoloration and tearing .then defective component neither will not for proceed.

We have discussed about some of important treatment of fabric what are doing in Garments factory. I hope if anybody follows that procedure properly. She/he will get a lot advantage from those.